Mount Ichic Ulta (5,300 m)

Ichic Ulta (5,300 m) in 1 day: a technical glacier summit recommended as your 2nd peak after Mateo; the perfect step before Mount Pisco.

Intro · First 5,000 mDemand: High

Duration

1 day

Max altitude

5,300 m

Season

Apr-Dec

Duration

1 day

Max altitude

5,300 m

Hiking

From Huaraz

2.5 h

Season

Apr-Dec

The art of mountain walking is loving to walk in the mountains.

Looking for a challenging summit with dreamlike views in a single day? Mount Ichic Ulta (5,300 m a.s.l.), also known as Ichic Ulta or the lesser summit of the Ulta Massif, rises in the impressive Ulta Valley next to the Punta Olímpica pass. It is a glacier ascent recommended as a second summit for climbers who have already done Mateo; the natural next step after topping out here is Mount Pisco (5,752 m).

Our expedition starts in the early morning from Huaraz, driving through the Callejón de Huaylas up towards Punta Olímpica (4,730 m). After traversing a rugged 3-hour rocky moraine, we rope up and step onto the glacier to climb sustained 50°-60° snow and ice slopes for about 3 hours to the summit ridge. From the crest, enjoy dramatic panoramic vistas of the colossal Contrahierbas ice walls, Chopicalqui, Huascarán Sur, and turquoise Cancarará and Belaunde lakes below.

Descent follows the same route with guided rappels and glacier footwork back to our private vehicle at Punta Olímpica. With certified UIAGM/AGMP mountain guides in a strict 1:2 safety ratio, complete personal climbing equipment, and briefing included, this is one of the Andes' best-kept mountaineering secrets and prime preparation for Mount Pisco.

5,300 m glacier summit with direct views of Contrahierbas and Huascarán

Recommended as 2nd summit for beginners; the next step is Mount Pisco

Privileged alpine vistas over turquoise Cancarará and Belaunde glacial lakes

Full Day summit climb with 1:2 guide ratio and private transit to Punta Olímpica

Itinerary

1 day · 7h hiking · no overnight

Day 1

Huaraz - Punta Olímpica (4,730 m) - Ichic Ulta summit (5,300 m) - Huaraz

Departure at 1:00 AM from Huaraz by private transport to Punta Olímpica (4,730 m). 3-hour hike over rocky moraine to the glacier. Rope up and 3-hour climb on snow and ice ramps (up to 60°) to the summit of Mount Ichic Ulta (5,300 m). Time for photos with views of Contrahierbas, Huascarán and the turquoise Cancarará and Belaunde lakes. Rappel descent and hike back to the vehicle to return to Huaraz (~4:00 PM).

3,100 → 5,300 → 3,100 m7 h hikingReturn to Huaraz

Included

Pre-climb briefing and equipment fitting in Huaraz the day prior.

Bilingual (English/Spanish) Official Mountain Guide (UIAGM / AGMP) with strict 1:2 safety ratio.

Private round-trip tourist transportation (Huaraz – Punta Olímpica – Huaraz).

Personal technical climbing equipment (mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet).

Group technical gear (certified dynamic ropes, snow pickets, cords, and locking carabiners).

High-altitude first aid kit and medical oxygen tank.

Rigid or semi-rigid mountaineering boots compatible with crampons.

Technical crampons with anti-balling plates fitted to boots.

Classic alpine ice axe.

Climbing harness with tether and locking carabiners.

Certified mountaineering helmet.

Dynamic climbing ropes and snow pickets managed by the guide.

Medical oxygen tank and pulse oximeter.

Not included

Huascarán National Park entrance ticket (S/. 30 foreigners / S/. 15 Peruvians for 1 day).

Personal technical clothing (thermal base layer, waterproof windproof jacket and pants, heavy gloves).

30 to 40 L mountaineering daypack for the climb.

Headlamp and category 4 glacier sunglasses.

Mountain rescue, accident, and medical insurance.

Tips for the mountain guide and driver.

30 to 40 L daypack to carry water, warm layers, and snacks.

3-layer system: breathable thermal base, fleece/warm mid-layer, and waterproof shell (Gore-Tex).

Technical waterproof or windproof mountain pants for snow.

Down jacket or warm insulated jacket for the summit and rest stops.

Warm beanie / chullo and balaclava or neck gaiter for biting wind.

Two pairs of gloves: thin thermal liners and heavy waterproof mountain gloves.

Glacier glasses with category 4 UV protection (essential for snow glare).

Headlamp (min 250 lumens) with fresh spare batteries.

High-energy trail box lunch and hot beverages.

Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and UV-blocking lip balm.

1.5 to 2-liter water bottle or insulated thermos.

Recommendations

Acclimatize for 2 or 3 days in Huaraz (3,050 m) before tours that ascend above 4,500 m.
Get a good night's sleep before and eat light meals: easily digestible foods the day before and the day of the tour.
Altitude sickness medication: consult your doctor before your trip. Acetazolamide requires a prescription, should be started the day before, and is ineffective if you already have symptoms.
Travel with insurance that covers mountain activities and rescue.
Do not drink alcohol for the first 48 hours at altitude.
Drink water constantly, without forcing yourself: drinking too much does not prevent altitude sickness.
Inform your guide if you experience a severe headache, nausea, or dizziness. The rule is not to continue ascending if you have these symptoms.
Bring water (2 liters) and water purification tablets if you plan to drink from streams. There is livestock in the area, and these tablets are sold in pharmacies in Huaraz.
Bring energy snacks.
Bring sunscreen with SPF 50+, sunglasses with UV protection, and a hat: the radiation at high altitude is very strong.
Bring layers of clothing and waterproof gear, even during the dry season.
Bring a personal first-aid kit with your usual medications.
Bring your passport (there is a checkpoint at Huascarán National Park).