Mount Chopicalqui (6,354 m)

Conquer Mount Chopicalqui (6,354 m) in 4 days: very difficult 6,000er via the SW ridge; requires knot tying, first aid courses, and technical gear skills.

Advanced · TechnicalDemand: Very high

Duration

4 days

Max altitude

6,354 m

Season

Jun-Aug

Duration

4 days

Max altitude

6,354 m

Season

Jun-Aug

From Huaraz

2.5 h

Don't leave your dream for "someday". The best time to climb is now.

Ready to break the magical 6,000-meter barrier in the Andes? Mount Chopicalqui (6,354 m / 20,846 ft), affectionately called the 'little brother' of Huascarán, is one of the most aesthetic, coveted, and rewarding high-altitude summits in the Cordillera Blanca. Its world-famous Southwest Ridge delivers pure classic alpine climbing along dramatic snow crests and hanging glaciers.

Departing from the scenic Llanganuco road, we trek through quenual woods to Base Camp and Moraine Camp before stepping onto the glacier to establish High Camp (5,500 m). On summit night, rope up to navigate crisp snow bridges, bypass azure crevasses, and negotiate the steep summit ice steps (50°-65°). Reaching the summit mushroom at over 6,300 meters with the gargantuan face of Huascarán filling your horizon is an unforgettable triumph.

Due to its high altitude and technical alpine nature, it is mandatory to have completed certified knot tying and first aid courses, along with mastery of mountaineering gear and prior 5,000m ascents. Led by official high-mountain guides with strict 1:2 or 1:1 ratios, dedicated high-altitude porters, and hearty camp cooking, your expedition will be as safe and well-supported as it is epic.

Over 6,300 m summit featuring a world-class alpine ridge

Unmatched close-up views of the east faces of Huascarán North and South

High glacier camp at 5,500 m surrounded by dramatic ice spires

Chopicalqui requirements: knot tying, first aid courses, and mountaineering gear skills

Itinerary

4 days · 22h hiking · 3 nights overnight at camp

Day 1

Huaraz - Llanganuco Valley - Chopicalqui Curve - Base Camp (4,400 m)

Drive from Huaraz past Llanganuco lakes to the 'Chopicalqui Curve' (4,250 m). Meet porters/muleteers and take a short 1.5-hour hike through quenual woods to Base Camp (4,400 m).

3,052 → 4,400 m2 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 2

Base Camp - Moraine Camp (4,900 m)

Steady ascent along the moraine ridge over rock and gravel with panoramic views of Huascarán and Pisco. Set up Moraine Camp (4,900 m) near the glacier's edge.

4,400 → 4,900 m4 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 3

Moraine Camp - Glacier - Camp 1 / High Camp (5,500 m)

Put on crampons and rope up to enter the glacier. A 3 to 4-hour climb over snow ramps and crevasse bridges assisted by porters brings us to Camp 1 (5,500 m). Early dinner and rest.

4,900 → 5,500 m4 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 4 · Summit

Camp 1 - Chopicalqui Summit (6,354 m) - Descent and Return to Huaraz

Summit push at 1:00 AM ascending the Southwest Ridge past crevasses and 55°-65° steps to reach the summit (6,354 m) at dawn. 360° vistas of Huascarán and beyond. Controlled rappels to Camp 1 to pack up, continuing descent past Moraine Camp to the Llanganuco road and private transfer back to Huaraz.

5,500 → 6,354 → 3,052 m12 h hikingReturn to Huaraz

Included

Private round-trip tourist transportation (Huaraz – Llanganuco / Chopicalqui Curve – Huaraz).

Official tourism guide specialized in high mountain (safety ratio: max 2 climbers per guide).

High-altitude porters to carry tents, provisions, and group gear to Moraine Camp and Camp 1.

Professional mountain cook and full meals at all camps.

4-season expedition mountain tents (2 climbers per tent) and base camp dining tent.

Group technical gear: certified dynamic climbing ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, and anchor slings.

High-altitude first aid kit, pulse oximeter, and medical oxygen tank.

4-season expedition tents resistant to severe wind and snow.

Base camp kitchen and lightweight high-altitude stoves for Camp 1.

Safety ropes, ice screws, and snow stakes.

Medical oxygen tank and pulse oximeter.

Down sleeping bag (comfort rating: -15 °C to -20 °C).

Certified mountaineering helmet.

Insulated sleeping pad with high R-value (> 4.0).

One technical ice axe or two axes (one alpine axe and one technical tool).

Rigid or semi-automatic crampons with anti-balling plates.

Double high-altitude mountaineering boots for extreme cold (plastic or hybrid with thermal liner).

Headlamp (minimum 300 lumens) with spare cold-resistant lithium batteries.

Climbing harness with personal tether and 3 locking carabiners.

Not included

Huascarán National Park mountaineering permit (S/. 150 foreigners / S/. 75 Peruvians).

Personal porter for client's individual gear/pack to high camps.

Personal technical gear (double plastic boots, crampons, technical axes, harness, helmet).

-15 °C to -20 °C rated sleeping bag and insulated sleeping pad (available for rent).

Mandatory international high-altitude mountaineering, accident, and rescue insurance.

Tips for the guide, cook, and porters.

60-70 L mountaineering pack and 30 L summit pack.

4-layer clothing: merino/synthetic base, fleece mid-layer, Gore-Tex waterproof shell, and heavy expedition down parka (800+ fill).

Waterproof mountaineering gloves, thin liner gloves, and heavy warm mitts.

Double high-altitude mountaineering boots for extreme cold (plastic or hybrid with thermal liner).

1-liter stainless steel vacuum thermos for hot tea on summit night.

Category 4 glacier glasses with side shields and snow blizzard goggles.

Recommendations

Acclimatize for 2 or 3 days in Huaraz (3,050 m) before tours that ascend above 4,500 m.
Get a good night's sleep before and eat light meals: easily digestible foods the day before and the day of the tour.
Altitude sickness medication: consult your doctor before your trip. Acetazolamide requires a prescription, should be started the day before, and is ineffective if you already have symptoms.
Travel with insurance that covers mountain activities and rescue.
Do not drink alcohol for the first 48 hours at altitude.
Drink water constantly, without forcing yourself: drinking too much does not prevent altitude sickness.
Inform your guide if you experience a severe headache, nausea, or dizziness. The rule is not to continue ascending if you have these symptoms.
Bring water (2 liters) and water purification tablets if you plan to drink from streams. There is livestock in the area, and these tablets are sold in pharmacies in Huaraz.
Bring energy snacks.
Bring sunscreen with SPF 50+, sunglasses with UV protection, and a hat: the radiation at high altitude is very strong.
Bring layers of clothing and waterproof gear, even during the dry season.
Bring a personal first-aid kit with your usual medications.
Bring your passport (there is a checkpoint at Huascarán National Park).