Mount Huascarán (6,757 m)

Conquer the roof of Peru in 6 days: Mount Huascarán (6,757 m). Very difficult; requires knot tying, first aid courses, and mountaineering gear skills.

Advanced · TechnicalDemand: Very high

Duration

6 days

Max altitude

6,757 m

Season

Jun-Aug

Duration

6 days

Max altitude

6,757 m

Season

Jun-Aug

From Huaraz

2 h

The roof of Peru is waiting for you. Do you dare to touch the sky?

Ready for the ultimate mountaineering prize in the Peruvian Andes? Rising to a towering 6,757 meters (22,168 ft), Mount Huascarán Sur is the highest peak in Peru and the tallest mountain in the world's tropics. This demanding 6-day expedition represents the holy grail for experienced mountaineers looking to test their skills and endurance amidst colossal glaciers, giant crevasses, and high-altitude seracs.

Departing from the village of Musho, the classic route traverses highland quenual forests and rugged moraines before stepping onto the vast ice sheets. Navigating intricate glacier features, we establish the strategic Garganta High Camp (5,950 m) between the North and South summits. On summit push night, navigate crisp snow slopes and alpine ice ramps under crystal-clear skies to reach the summit plateau just as sunrise ignites the endless spine of the Cordillera Blanca.

Due to the extreme altitude and very difficult rating of Huascarán, it is mandatory to have completed certified knot tying and first aid courses, along with mastery of mountaineering equipment. Our expeditions run strictly under top alpine safety standards: official high-mountain guides with personal ratios (max 1 to 2 climbers per guide), professional high-altitude porters, 4-season expedition tents, and calorie-dense mountain nutrition. Step onto the roof of Peru with confidence and expert local support!

Summit of Huascarán Sur at 6,757 m, the highest peak in the tropics

High camp in La Garganta at 5,950 m between both colossal summits

Official high-mountain guides with strict 1:1 or 1:2 ratio

Huascarán requirements: knot tying, first aid courses, and gear proficiency

Itinerary

6 days · 33h hiking · 5 nights overnight at camp

Day 1

Huaraz - Musho - Base Camp (4,200 m)

Drive from Huaraz to the village of Musho (3,050 m). Meet muleteers and pack animals. A 4 to 5-hour hike through quenual forests brings us to Base Camp (4,200 m).

3,052 → 4,200 m5 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 2

Base Camp - Moraine Camp / Camp 1 (5,350 m)

Ascend across rocky moraine slabs to the glacier margin. Put on crampons and rope up to climb onto the glacier and set up Camp 1 (5,350 m) assisted by high porters.

4,200 → 5,350 m5 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 3

Camp 1 - La Garganta / Camp 2 (5,950 m)

Technical push traversing the serac fields and crevasse bridges to reach the saddle at La Garganta (5,950 m). Set up high camp, hydrate, and get early rest.

5,350 → 5,950 m5 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 4

Camp 2 - Huascarán Sur Summit (6,757 m) - Camp 1 or Camp 2

Midnight push at 1:00 AM ascending steep snow slopes and crevasses. Reach Huascarán South Summit (6,757 m) at sunrise. Unmatched vistas, photos, and controlled rappel descent back to Camp 2 or Camp 1.

5,950 → 6,757 → 5,350 m11 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 5

Descent to Base Camp (4,200 m)

Descent off the glacier across the moraine to return to the rich oxygen and comfort of Base Camp. Warm celebratory dinner prepared by our cook.

5,350 → 4,200 m4 h hikingOvernight at camp

Day 6 · Summit

Base Camp - Musho - Huaraz

Final 3-hour hike down to Musho, farewell to the muleteer crew, and private vehicle transfer back to Huaraz.

4,200 → 3,052 m3 h hikingReturn to Huaraz

Included

Private round-trip transportation (Huaraz – Musho – Huaraz).

Official tour guide specialized in high mountains (maximum safety ratio 1:2 or 1:1), or UAGMP-certified mountain guides.

High-altitude porters to carry tents, provisions, and group gear to high camps.

Muleteers and pack animals for Musho – Base Camp – Musho section.

Professional mountain chef and full meals across all camps.

4-season expedition mountain tents (2 climbers per tent) and base camp dining tent.

Group technical gear: dynamic climbing ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, and anchor slings.

High-altitude medical kit, pulse oximeter, and emergency medical oxygen.

Sleeping bag rated to -20 °C and inflatable sleeping pad.

Personal technical climbing gear (double mountaineering boots, crampons, technical axes, harness, helmet).

Kitchen tent, dining tent, and full cookware at base camp.

Certified mountain ropes, ice screws and snow pickets.

Medical oxygen tank, pulse oximeter, and trauma first aid kit.

High-altitude stoves, snow pickets and special fuel to melt snow at high camps.

Sleeping bags and sleeping pads.

Boots, crampons, ice axes, helmets, gloves and harness.

4-season high-altitude stormproof expedition tents.

Not included

Huascarán National Park mountaineering permit (S/. 150 foreigners / S/. 75 Peruvians).

Personal porter for client's individual gear (available at extra cost).

Mandatory international high-altitude mountaineering and helicopter evacuation insurance.

Tips for the guide, cook, muleteers, and porters.

Double high-altitude mountaineering boots (plastic or hybrid with warm liner rated to -20 °C).

65-80 L expedition backpack and 35 L summit daypack.

4-layer clothing system: thermal base layer (merino/synthetic), fleece mid-layer, waterproof shell (Gore-Tex Pro), and heavy expedition down jacket (800+ fill).

Expedition down mitts for summit day and spare waterproof thermal gloves.

Category 4 glacier glasses with side shields and snow blizzard goggles.

1-liter stainless steel thermos for hot fluids and insulated Nalgene bottle.

High-powered headlamp (at least 300 lumens) with cold-resistant spare batteries.

Recommendations

Acclimatize for 2 or 3 days in Huaraz (3,050 m) before tours that ascend above 4,500 m.
Get a good night's sleep before and eat light meals: easily digestible foods the day before and the day of the tour.
Altitude sickness medication: consult your doctor before your trip. Acetazolamide requires a prescription, should be started the day before, and is ineffective if you already have symptoms.
Travel with insurance that covers mountain activities and rescue.
Do not drink alcohol for the first 48 hours at altitude.
Drink water constantly, without forcing yourself: drinking too much does not prevent altitude sickness.
Inform your guide if you experience a severe headache, nausea, or dizziness. The rule is not to continue ascending if you have these symptoms.
Bring water (2 liters) and water purification tablets if you plan to drink from streams. There is livestock in the area, and these tablets are sold in pharmacies in Huaraz.
Bring energy snacks.
Bring sunscreen with SPF 50+, sunglasses with UV protection, and a hat: the radiation at high altitude is very strong.
Bring layers of clothing and waterproof gear, even during the dry season.
Bring a personal first-aid kit with your usual medications.
Bring your passport (there is a checkpoint at Huascarán National Park).